After a year at Lincoln University spent studying horticulture, and вЂtouched by the wand of happy madnessвЂ™, White embarked on the Whitbread Round the World Race in 1978. Indeed White, with his swarthy good looks, pierced ears and sinewy physique has the look of a modern-style swashbuckler. It is bizarre, therefore, to find ourselves together again exactly 18 years to the day at his Stonyridge Vineyard on Waiheke, an extraordinarily beautiful island with curvaceous, almost mountainous hills and a myriad of inlets and bays. I first met Stephen White on the MV Tolaga Bay in Auckland harbour in 1982 while on my way to Australia. The palate is concentrated with plenty of mouthfeel, complex dark cherry, strawberry and meaty flavours, fine even but pronounced tannins finishing firm and tight.

Medium dark crimson coloured, this is a very clear-fruited wine with high pitched strawberry essence and touches of dark chocolate and rose. The 1999 Dry River Amaranthe is certainly such a wine. It is a subtle way of encouraging his clientele toД¬ellar these wines for a bit longer. Few are really able to connect the flavours in the vineyard to the winery.вЂ™ In exceptional years McCallum labels his Pinot Noir вЂAmarantheвЂ™ which in Greek mythology was an everlasting flower. вЂMany producers shun the convention that wine is made in the vineyard but how many are religious through their hearts? I think many are just simply brainwashed. It is here, he believes, that major improvements to his wines can occur. The vineyard is McCallumвЂ™s matrix of nature and nurture. The emphasis should be on caretaking, although great Pinot needs concentration and structure to achieve development.вЂ™ Essentially I think that a non-judgemental vision, rather than an aim to make a particular style, is the best way of maximising Martinborough Pinot Noir. So what makes good Pinot Noir? вЂThe variety should express itself to its fullest potential. You have to have complete faith in yourself.вЂ™McCallum planted his vineyard in 1979, on MartinboroughвЂ™s now famous crescent of gravels, essentially a river terrace with a great cool climate, low rainfall and low moisture storage вЂ“ the ideal properties for growing deep-rooted vines. What you do in April could have an impact on what happens in November the year after. Almost every decision you make has ramifications down the line. вЂThe mental attitude of winemaking is similar to organic chemistry. McCallum, who has a doctorate from Oxford University, was a senior research chemist for the New Zealand government.

They punish themselves in order to achieve their goals.вЂ™ All difficult people have particular vices that are virtues for creativity.

ItвЂ™s not awfully different to an artist putting paint on a canvas. I have this obsessive need to do better and go further. His difficult reputation is eclipsed only by a few cantankerous old bastards across the Tasman. It is with some trepidation that I meet Dr Neil McCallum, owner of Dry River, the almost legendary Martinborough winery.

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